The replacement coolant header tank looks identical to the original, the difference is that the new one has a floating 'ring' inside which floats on the coolant and actuates the sensor, presumably via a magnet. Note that you can NOT modify the original tank by drilling a hole in it, as this will achieve nothing.
The new tank looks like this:
Attachment 426
and the sensor like this:
Attachment 427
You may be able to make out the ring when the tank is backlit. Also, the new tank rattles when shaken, unlike the original (without ring).
Attachment 428
The sensor fits into the tank like this:
Attachment 429
The first job was to empty the coolant out of the header tank. I siphoned this into a clean washing-up bowl, so that it could be re-used.
Attachment 430
Once the siphoning was done, I found a couple of M6 allen bolts and a wine bottle cork in order to plug the three hoses which connect to the tank. I then removed the battery. There was a lot of crud which had collected under the battery, and there were two drain holes that were blocked up. The holes seemed to be on the small side, so I enlarged them with a 5mm drill.
Attachment 431
Attachment 432
The header tank slides onto a metal bracket and a plastic clip slides onto the end to prevent the tank sliding off.
Attachment 433
The clip needs to be removed first ...
Attachment 434
and then the tank can be slid off.
Attachment 435
Comparison of old and new tanks:
Attachment 440
Once the sensor has been clicked into position, the new tank can be fitted.
Attachment 436
The sensor can be seen in this picture. You can also see one of the allen bolts blocking up one of the two small hoses.
Attachment 437
Now the three hoses can be reconnected. I'm not a big fan of the standard springy rings that are fitted as standard, so I fitted new jubilee clips all round.
Attachment 438
The coolant can now be replaced and topped up to the correct level.
As the wiring loom was not ready, I taped up the connector to prevent muck getting into it.
Attachment 439
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